Alterations That Add Extra Polish

As an image consultant I can not stress enough how important proper alterations are. Several women of various figure types might all wear basically a size 8. Yet possibly only one will be so lucky as to have an "off the rack" garment fit perfectly. So do not pass up an outfit that otherwise suits you without considering what can be altered for perhaps $20-40.

The length of the pants, skirt or sleeve is usually a simple alteration. A slim pant should end at about the ankle, as seen in the left photo. Classic trousers should be hemmed to just the top on the heel. Wide pants should cover about half the heel. A skirt length that flatters most legs ends where your leg curves in, which for most women is just below the knee cap. Personal preference also enters in. The tall Per Se models above look youthful in the shorter length. Sleeves should just cover your wrist bone, unless they are 3/4 length which should be about the middle of the lower arm.

Most well made garments can be let out in the waist. Conversely the waist band can also be taken in. If you have curves and want to show them off, have your alterations person nip the jacket in on the side and center back seams. Be sure the jacket still falls over hips without bunching up in back.

Women with large busts or broad backs often avoid sizing up because the shoulders and even the upper arms can get too over sized. A good tailor can adjust the shoulders and arms on a larger size, though this is a more expensive alteration.

Do the side pockets on a pant, skirt or dress bulge out making you look extra hippy? Then have them sewn down. Dresses are the hardest to buy without some tweaking. Buy a dress to fit your widest area: your hips or your bust. Then have the rest altered. If you are short waisted and the dress has a set waist, then you can have the waist shorted. If there is enough fabric a long waisted figure type could have the waist lengthened.

Find a good alterations person who can make you look perfectly tailored. It will add that extra polish that shows you pay attention to detail.

Overdoing Black in Your Wardrobe

I recently did I style analysis and wardrobe audit for a woman who works in a conservative financial company. Her wardrobe was predominately black. While this is certainly a great color for the conservative environment that she worked it, it was not actually best color for her individual coloring. With her warm skin and hair color I advised her to add tops and even scarves to wear under her jackets with touches of colors like coral, aqua, warm red, yellow, apple green, camel and beige. Wearing warm toned jewelry such as a gold chain, warm toned pearls, and stones in earth tones would also lessen the effect of black next to face. Note how the blond pictured here in a Carlisle jacquard black suit has a scoop necked top under her jacket allowing her skin to show and a gold toned necklace to accent her hair color.

Personally, I also have a warm Spring's coloring. When I wear black I never have it near my neck. I wear a darker eyeliner and deeper eye shadow. In addition I usually wear a soft red lipstick and deeper shade of blush. Without intensifying my usual makeup I look washed out in black.

So while black is such a basic neutral in many women's wardrobes, it may not be your best neutral. You may want to consider navy blue or chocolate brown as a base for mix n matching.

Fall Fashion Trends

The Carlisle and Per Se Fall Collections are now being shown across the nation through private trunk shows. My show in La Canada, California began July 30 and goes through August 18. Then in October I will show again and add the winter collections. It is always exciting to see what our designers have created for the new season. Again they have again taken the current trends from the runways and created wearable yet remarkable garments.

So here are some of the trends. Plaids have an updated look. The plaid jacket here also shows the continued interest in sleeve details. Another trend is long sweaters that work like jackets and are so comfortable. Leathers are very unique like their black leather jacket with a large fringed collar. Skinny pants and leggings are still going forward, but all widths are fashionable. Pick the width that works for your figure type. Most amazing in the Carlisle Collection are the details and hours of hand work needed to create pieces that are works of art. One suede skirt has punch holes through which leather strips are woven to create a plaid pattern. It takes 10 hours to lace one skirt!

go to my website http://www.wardrobeperfect.com/ to learn more about trunk shows and to link to the Carlisle and Per Se Collections web pages. What you can not appreciate from the photos is the feel of their designer fabrics.

Summer Whites

Nothing says summer like white. This turquoise Carlisle sweater just "pops" when paired with white, as do all bright colors. White does require some extra care though.

One of the complaints I often get is keeping summer whites from turning yellow or taking on a dull gray hue. I called Scott Bell, owner of Bryan's Cleaners, and my dry cleaner for decades. The best advice is to remember to clean frequently. Body oils, perspiration, unseen splatters of white wine or other unnoticed foods or sprays absorb into the fabric. The longer they stay in the fabric the harder to remove them.

When you clean your washable clothing note that regular bleach can turn some white fabrics yellow. Look for natural oxygen safe bleach, usually found in health stores. Borax or washing soda will also brighten whites, as will sunlight for cottons especially. Really hard water can turn garments that dull gray color, so use vinegar in the rinse cycle.

Byran's has an excellent website with tips. Go to http://www.bryanscleaner.com/ then the tab newsletter. You'll see several letters about the care of whites by Steve Boorstein. In addition there are style tips on body types by Kate Rice starting with #22.

Finding the Right Swimsuit

I had to face the terrible moment of buying a new swimsuit for the summer. On line I found this great site. www.itfigures.com You click your figure issue and a selection of possible choices come up. My issue is heavy thighs. Pictures here is one of their solutions. Other figure issues could be tummy, long torso, wide hips, small bust, large bust, or mastectomy. You can order on line, find a store that carries this line, or request a catalog.

Keeping Up Appearances

I am preparing for a trip to France and recently read a book, "Almost French" by Sarah Turnbull. The author who is from Australia writes about her cultural adjustments during her first years of living in France. In one section she writes about her boyfriend's shock that she was going out in the morning to get croissants in her baggy sweatpants. He thought that the baker would not be very happy to have her in his shop dressed sloppily. In other words her appearance downgraded the quality of his store. Most likely he would want to ignore her and wait on others. It really tickled me. I am one of those people who really likes to dress nice even when running errands. For instance today I have a nice top, skirt and sandals on with a necklace and bracelet. I just feel better when out and about. I do get better service. Plus I never have to be embarrassed if I run into a friend or business associate.

What is your feeling about the way most American dress when running errands and shopping?

Fashion Show at Sheraton Universal

May 10 I helped put on a fashion show for St. Joseph's Medical Center Benefit. The theme was Kentucky Derby Day, so lots of the women wore hats including me. The fashion producer, Lucienda Meidema, did a great job with the CARLISLE fashions. The opening scene was done to the music of "Ascot Opening Day" from "My Fair Lady" with the models in five CARLISLE black and white outfits and hats striking poses to the music.

The hats in the fashion show were from Lynn Frances Millinery. She can customize a hat to go with any special occasion outfit. So if you have an outdoor wedding, afternoon tea, or trip to the Ascot races, she is your resource. www.lynfrances.com or phone 866-lynfrances.

What to Wear at a Job Interview

The photo here shows a very feminine business suit with it's belted waist, the scoop neckline and 3/4 length sleeves. Minus the fashion gloves, could it work for an interview? Well that depends on the company's culture and the position you are applying for. If the company was very conservative with men in suits this would work with pumps and conservative earrings. Dangling earrings would distract. Perhaps the hair might be pulled back.

If the company was more polished business casual, the jacket belted with black classic pants would be less formal. At a very informal company you could wear the skirt with a black cardigan set. If the company was in the artistic field, the jacket with a wide belt, slim cut pants and fashion heels might be the look. Regardless you need to research the company culture and dress code before going to an interview.

5 Tips for Looking Slim Instantly

At this time of the year it seems everyone is dealing with those extra pounds. While dieting or thinking about dieting here are some tips to help you feel and look slimmer.

1. Watch your posture. It can be as simple as lifting your rib cage.

2. Avoid wearing tight clothes. They will only emphasis your weight gain and depress you. If necessary buy a basic neutral dark top and bottom in a larger size. Usually your jackets and cardigans will still fit if you are only up 5-10 pounds.

3. Wear a column of colors. That is a matching top and bottom. It creates an unbroken vertical line.

4. Be sure your bra is doing it's job. A low bustline makes you look heavier than you are.

5. Add a small shoulder pad. This will make your shoulders broader than your hips.

The outfit above is from the Carlisle Spring Collection. The column of brown is slimming and the white Topper jacket is a loose construction which hides those extra pounds.

Some of the ideas for these tips are from Brenda Kinsel's book, "Forty over Forty". She is a fellow Association of Image Consultants member. Another great book is Leah Feldon's "Does This Make Me Look Fat."

Wardrobe Colors by the Month

In a recent article in the Wall Street Journal Christina Binkley wrote about Holiday attire and the short number of weeks we might wear something like a red velvet dress. I certainly have a few items that only get worn in December. For years I have hung out on my hall rack a 3/4 length red and green plaid Carlisle coat that I wear multiple times per week all through December. I think the red silk dress pictured here can be worn October through March and not simply December though.

I actually tend to go through my favorite colors to wear by the month. In October and November it's my orange tops. My base tends to be brown. My December it's naturally anything red often with black bottoms. Though I wear red accessories almost year round. In January-February I love wool sweaters and pants in winter white. By Spring I am into corals and aqua blue. The hot days of summer it's often bright lemon yellow or lime green cottons with crisp whites.

As I buy classics these seasonally rotated clothes are in my wardrobe for years. Though many pieces can be worn any time of year, they just cry out to be worn certain months especially.

All this is somewhat mirrored by my home decor. I rotate my accessories by the seasons. In January and February it's mirrors with crystal vases and bowls and white candles to pick up the weaker winter light. Come Spring it's flowers and bunnies. In Summer I display all my seashells.

Am I alone in the joy of expressing the flow of the year by the rotation of my clothes or household decor? Certainly retailers hope other women do the same!

What is your color contrast level?

Most women know about seasonal colors or at least which colors look best on them. Have you ever considered what contrast level in a print works best for you? The model on the left has a medium contrast between her hair color and complexion. The dress is also medium contrast: beige and brown. This is one of the reasons this dress looks great on this model, the contrast levels agree. If the dress was black and white (the ultimate in high contrast), then someone with dark hair and a fair complexion would look especially striking because the again the contrast levels agree.

Contrast level is one of the items I note on my client's profile. It's a subtle element. Sometimes though a certain garment color and the styling of a garment will trump contrast level when making a purchase decision. Just become aware of your personal contrast level. Look at the prints in your closet. Are they low, medium or high contrast? Which do you feel best in?

Tights and Black Sheer Hosiery

Often women over 50 will tell me that a certain skirt in the Collection is too short for them. Yet my opinion is that with tights or dark hosiery you can wear a shorter skirt if you have good legs. Look at the short black skirt at the left. In this photo the model almost looks like she is wearing pants because the skirt, tights and shoes create one long look. Hot this season are tights with boots also. The model on the right is wearing a chiffon flowing skirt with sheer black hose. The hosiery definitely is the finishing touch to this elegant lady look. Bare legs just will not do here.

Cypress Jacket $545 Angelic Satin Blouse $295

Intrigue Skirt $235 Caviar Chiffon Skirt $255

See www.wardrobeperfect.com for more about the Carlisle and Per Se Collections.